This morning, our ship passed through Lamaire Channel which
is 5 miles long but gets very narrow at one point with mountains rising up on
either side of the passage. It is often
ice filled which can prevent ships from passing through. We are lucky today and started the journey
right behind a National Geographic ship.
The cloud cover was fairly low, so we didn’t get a view of the top of
the mountains, but we it was spectacular none the less.
Our first stop this morning is at Peterman Island where
we’ll get our first glimpse of Adelie Penguins.
They are further along with raising their young, so we could easily see
them under/by their parents. There were
also Gentoos and birds with their young nesting on the same rock by the ocean. This morning was a time to sit and watch the
activity. The little guys are busy going
down their highways, stealing rocks, going out to sea to eat krill and just
hang out. Oh, and they have fairly
explosive pooping sessions. You can
definitely tell you’re near a penguin colony by the smell of guano which we all
wash and scrub off our boots each time we return to the ship.
There were a lot of icebergs in this bay, so cruising in the
Zodiac’s was beautiful. We also got our
first sighting of Leopard Seals. These
long neck, spotted seals are quit pretty and innocent looking until they open
their mouths. They have giant teeth
which they use to grab their prey – penguins.
We also saw sea-ice for the first time.
This is ice that is actually formed on the water so it is flat and
thin. Flipper (our driver this morning)
ran us up on one so we could have a closer look. I can’t mention enough how beautiful the
icebergs are with their interesting formations and blue ice. One we were watching was bobbing very high in
the water and looked like it could turn at any moment. The drivers have to stay fairly far away from
them in case they do suddenly flip.
After lunch we were in Iceberg Alley, Planeau. Our outing was Zodiac’s only, where we were
able to cruise around the bay looking at the ice and also looking for
seals. And boy, did we ever find the
seals! It seemed like every other piece
of sea ice contained a sleeping Leopard Seal.
They would look up at us as we drove by and stopped to take pictures.
One particular seal decided it might be time to take a swim,
so he slithered off the ice and swam between two boats to take a look at
us. Vlad, our driver, had a Gopro on a
stick that he put in the water. The seal
seemed to like looking at it. He
practically came into our boat to take a look at us. After some time taking his picture, we set
off across the bay and darn if he didn’t follow us for a while. It was definitely a highlight of the trip.
Today, the crew setup the gangway for the Polar Plunge. There were 78 brave souls who braved the cold
in their swimsuits to jump off the platform with a rope around their middle to
experience that cold water up close. We
didn’t have a desire, but our friend took the leap. I think there was general agreement that it
was very cold but they were glad they did it.
Dinner was exceptionally good this evening with lamb chops and
seafood pasta being featured. Flipper
joined us and after dinner a group of us gathered around the table to share
several bottles of fine wine. The bar
manager, Sixto, suggested we put together a group of 20 to have a wine and
cheese tasting on the way back to Ushuaia.
Tomorrow: Our last day of outings before heading home.




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